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Women in Poland examine their options in the cosmetic department. According to research, beauty and personal care in Poland were resistant to the economic slowdown with total sales showing a growth in 2009.

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The cosmetics industry sells products designed to temporarily change a person's appearance. A growing segment of the industry, “cosmeceuticals” (a blend of cosmetics and pharmaceuticals), promise longer-lasting changes. Whether fleeting or more enduring, the changes the industry promises tend to correspond to prevailing standards of beauty, that is, youthful, thin, and quite often white. Cosmetics are a multibillion-dollar industry in the United States and worth $45 billion globally. Women around the world are marketed a wide array of cosmetic products and remain the largest consumer group, although in recent years an increasing number of cosmetic products have been marketed to and consumed by men. Feminism has long been associated with a critical view of the cosmetics industry.

Today, there are a range of feminist perspectives on cosmetics, and many contemporary feminists call attention to the relationship between cosmetics and identity. Indeed, the cosmetics industry is important because whether or not women identify as feminists, for those with access to cosmetics, the use, manner of use, or nonuse of cosmetics is a statement. There are several issues related to the global cosmetics industry: first, the vast scope of products sold to women and men; second, the mass marketing of cosmetics and critiques of “hucksterism” (the claiming that a product will evoke changes that it could not possibly accomplish) that persistently dog the industry; and finally, critiques of racism in that products are often designed to make the consumer more closely resemble a white or European ideal. The industry's response to the various critiques will also be examined.

Cosmetic and “Cosmeceutical” Products

Today, there is a vast scope of cosmetic products sold to women and men around the world. Cosmetic products sold to women include those associated with skin (such as creams, lotions and skin lightening products), hair (shampoos, conditioners, mousse, hair spray, hair dyes, permanent wave solutions, and hair straightening products), nails (nail polish and artificial nails), bathing (bath oils and bubble baths), in addition to the variety of face paints and powders known as “makeup” (lipstick, eyeliner, mascara, concealer, foundation, face powder, blush, and eye shadow). Cosmetic products sold to men (which also have women's versions) have until recently been limited to hair products, fragrances, deodorants, shaving products, mouthwashes, and sunscreens.

However, with changing conceptions of masculinity in the 2000s (such as the rise of the “metrosexual” man in urban North America and Europe who takes great care with his appearance) products sold to men today include eye gel, exfoliating facial scrubs, and even face paints and powders such as brow and eyelash gel, eye shadow, eyeliner, lip gloss, and concealer. To avoid unduly blurring prevailing conceptions of gender difference (and the reduced appeal to many male consumers such blurring might entail), these products are usually marketed as “skin care” or “grooming products” rather than cosmetics or makeup. Although some of the above products for women and men are used for bodily cleanliness, soap itself is not considered a cosmetic. In addition to selling more products to men, the cosmetics industry has expanded in recent years by offering an increasingly wide scope of products dubbed “cosmeceuticals.”

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