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A “sweatshop” is not merely a firm that offers poorly paid jobs or an authoritarian system of work relations. The wages such companies pay are below the federally mandated minimum, or the conditions of employment they provide are substandard in terms of the criteria first set in 1938 by the U.S. Fair Labor Standards Act, or, in the case of other countries, employers offer wages below the labor standards of that country's laws. Or, as John Galtung puts it, committed violence against persons that is not limited to physical acts that do them directly physical harm. This violence may also be understood as avoidable insults to basic human needs—and more generally to life, which means a lower level of life satisfaction, below what is required to maintain a stable and acceptable quality of life.

Sweatshops are typically found in the “garment,” or apparel, industry in the United States and abroad. In them, we find child labor, long hours, low pay, sexual harassment, environmental hazards, employment-generated health problems, and sometimes indentured servitude. These problems basically affect women workers, since women are the choice labor force for this industry.

Most important, women work for lower wages than men do. A woman's wage reflects the measure of value that men and women place on them. To recognize how much value people place on their productive and reproductive work is to recognize how much to calculate a woman's wage is worth, a fair and just recompense for workers whose primary activity in life is defined by their relationship to the family—as wife and mother. Only the higher-paying industrial jobs are defined as appropriate for men. The man is considered the proper support for the family, and the woman is subordinate in the workforce.

Women's Wages

Women make up, on average, 70 to 80 percent of the labor force in the apparel industry, and sometimes more. Occasionally, there are a few men who work at it. The women are mostly young women, unmarried and between the ages of 18 and 25. In some instances, they are married women with families.

In the 1950s, New York City was the center of the women's fashion industry. The vast majority of the women's garment industry, made strong by the International Ladies Garment Workers Union (the ILGWU), was centered in New York, New Jersey, and Pennsylvania. It made 75 percent of the apparel industry's Easter dresses. Thanks to the power of the ILGWU, these women had good wages and decent hours, they were mostly married, and they lived a middle-class life.

Maquiladoras

By the 1990s, things had started to change. The U.S. sweatshop had emerged. In 1995, California state officials raided an undercover garment factory in El Monte, a middle-class suburb of Los Angeles. In the basement of a suburban house, Asian traffickers held—by force—70 Thai workers whom they had smuggled into the United States. The house was ringed with barbed-wire and spiked fences, and the doors were locked from the outside. The building had no rear exit, and its small windows were reinforced with thick iron bars. There, Thai workers, mostly impoverished women in their late teens or early 20s, were forced to sew clothing for about $1.60 an hour, from 7 A.M. to midnight each day. The clothes they were producing went to prominent retailers like Macy's, Hechts's, Filene's, and J. C. Penney.

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