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Fragrances and Perfume

Fragrance is a generic term that refers to odors, smells, scents, or aromas having a positive connotation. Fragrances are used nearly ubiqutously in commercial production (e.g., “new car” smell). Even “unscented” products are scented with fragrances that mask the odors involved in production. The term fragrance, or more often fine fragrance, is also a synonym for perfume.

Perfume is a subtype of fragrance for the purpose of self-scenting and environmental em bellishment. The central function of perfume is to create a hedonically pleasing olfactory experience. It differs from many other perceptual phenomena for being primarily produced and demanded for sensory pleasure rather than physiological necessity. Other functions of perfume are to make the wearer appear well groomed or to belong to a particular social class or demographic, and to cover up fetid body or household odors. Thus, perfume facilitates social interactions. This entry describes the history of perfume use and production, ingredients of modern perfumes, perfume qualities, perfume development, and the psychology and physiology of perfume perception.

History of Perfume Use and Production

The word perfume comes from the Latin per fumum, meaning through smoke, and originated about 4,000 years ago among the Mesopotamians in the form of incense. Perfumery, the art of making perfume, then traveled to Egypt where it was initially only used in rituals for the gods or pharaohs. The original aromatic essences were herbs and spices such as coriander and myrtle; flowers were not used until much later. The Persian philosopher and physician Avicenna (ca. 980–1037) introduced the process of extracting oils from flowers by distillation; the method of boiling a liquid mash through which chemicals with different properties can be separated. This method is still used.

Perfumery came to Europe in the 14th century when, at the behest of Queen Elizabeth of Hungary in 1307, the first modern perfume made of scented oils blended in an alcohol solution was produced. This perfume was thereafter dubbed “Hungary Water.” During the Renaissance, France became the epicenter of perfume development and culture, and by the 14th century cultivation of flowers in the south of France had grown into a major industry. By the 18th century, the Grasse region of France had a booming perfume trade, and it remains the capital of the Western perfume world. “Cologne” was originally invented by Italian perfumers living in Koln (Cologne) Germany in the 1700s and was made from rosemary and citrus essences dissolved in wine. The scent became quite popular, was a favorite of Napoleon Bonaparte, and was even believed to be a preventative for the plague. Today, the term cologne is a generic term for a weakly concentrated perfume or a man's fine fragrance.

Ingredients of Modern Perfumes

Contemporary perfumes contain between tens to hundreds of ingredients and comprise the following: (a) essential oils derived from natural aromatic plant extracts or synthetic aromatic chemicals that are classified by structural group (e.g., alcohols, esters, aldehydes, and terpenes); (b) fixatives, natural or synthetic substances used to reduce the evaporation rate, increase perceived odor strength, and improve stability; and (c) solvents, the liquid in which the perfume oil is dissolved. The typical solvent solution is 98% ethanol and 2% water.

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