Chanel, Coco (1883–1971)

French fashion designer

A pioneer in women's fashion, Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel founded a business empire in the early twentieth century, leading women away from impractical clothing to designs that emphasized comfort and functionality as well as high style.

Born into poverty in the French town of Saumur in central France, Chanel learned to sew while attending a local convent school. In 1902, she took her first job as a dressmaker; she became a milliner around 1908. Chanel's simply trimmed hats were a sharp contrast to the extravagant styles prevalent in the first years of the century. Fascinated by her unconventional approach to fashion, society women joined actresses and courtesans as customers of the rising designer. In 1910, Chanel opened her first shop, Chanel Modes, in Deauville, France. Her lease prevented her from competing with another dressmaking shop, but the women who bought Chanel hats admired the dresses worn by the milliner and requested copies. Sometime around 1910, Chanel also began selling clothing.

Coco Chanel at 79.

Hulton-Deutsch Collection/Corbis; used with permission.