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Identity, despite its idiosyncratic implications, is not a free-floating quality. Rather it is a social construct organically connected to varied dimensions of social life. Each social order gives birth to a set of opportunities and conditions that either enable or constrain individuals in the making of their respective identities. Even those who are interested in transcending existing identities need the social and cultural “materials” against which they work, or better, on the basis of which they weave new identities. Having this premise of the social production of identities at the hub of their analysis, recent social theorists contend that the self has assumed a commodified form that is expressed through the consumption of goods and services. Their argument is antithetical to the productivist logic, which is premised on the idea that human beings are creative social agents who are primarily engaged in productive activity through which they have the potential to define themselves. In contrast, theoreticians of consumer society, including Zygmunt Bauman and Jean Baudrillard, contend that the nature of contemporary capitalism has assumed a qualitatively new turn that the self has no choice save to be swamped by the logic of consumer society. Others, such as Thorstein Veblen, have provided a mild version of this contention, focusing on status-driven consumption. On the other extreme, critical theorists view consumption under advanced capitalism, not as a sign of freedom in which members of society construct their identities without restraint but as an instrument of “repressive tolerance,” a state of unfreedom from which emancipation has become increasingly difficult.

Identity, Consumer Society, and Mass Culture

The first social theorist to have broken with the productivist logic, although not completely abandoning it, was Veblen. Veblen is noted in this regard for his identification of the connection between identity and consumption. The underlying premise of his analysis is that for some groups, consumption is not merely a passive moment wherein individuals simply satisfy their appetites. Instead, consumption can assume an active mode with significant social implications. More precisely, using the consumptive behavior of the upper classes of his time, Veblen showed how status and consumption patterns are connected. In demonstration of this connection, Veblen noted that members are actively involved in the two-pronged dimensions of “conspicuous waste,” namely, “conspicuous consumption” and “conspicuous leisure.” Whereas the former involves engagement in palpable waste of time and effort, the latter refers to eye-catching waste of goods. These two processes complement one another: Active consumers need leisure time to cultivate appropriate dispositions in order to understand the quality and hierarchy of the goods to be consumed.

The fundamental feature of conspicuous consumption and conspicuous leisure is not that they are acts involving waste only. More importantly, in tune with the idea that wealth and power are what they are by virtue of the capacity of their possessors’ ability to display the political significance of their power and the value of the goods they own, conspicuous waste serves as a critical instrument in a status-making process. For instance, through conspicuous leisure, members of a class express their disdain for instrumental labor; thereby, their nonlabor serves as a marker of higher distinction. On the other hand, conspicuous consumption pronounces social status by amplifying the utilization of goods that are considered to be the visible signs of a high position. Neither form of conspicuous waste accomplishes its intended goal in the same way and at all times. The extent to which the two modes of waste are used is determined by “advertising expediency.” In communities where the size of the group is small, the most effective way of reaching the group for which the display is intended is conspicuous leisure. In contrast, in highly differentiated societies, the most expedient method is conspicuous consumption, because it is the best available means to reach a wide range of individuals. All the same, whether it is in small groups or in highly differentiated societies, conspicuous waste can have an important consequence for society as a whole. Over time, a “norm of reputability” can be created in which the behavior patterns of the uppers are legitimized, and those who are below them can hardly afford to violate “the accepted code.”

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