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The devastating tsunami in the Indian Ocean of December 26, 2004, alerted the world to one of the most terrifying natural phenomena on Earth. Few will forget the scenes of carnage and destruction wrought by the floodwaters as they swept across coastal areas. In fact, tsunamis have been known about for generations. The word tsunami is derived from the Japanese word meaning “harbor wave.” Tsunamis are frequently described as tidal waves; however, this view is erroneous, since they have nothing to do with tides. Tsunamis are generated by offshore earthquakes, submarine slides, and, occasionally, subaerial landslides that enter water bodies. Asteroid impact is an additional but much rarer mechanism. With the exception of asteroid impacts, the displacement of mass, whether through submarine sediment slides, the collapse of a volcanic edifice, or an earthquake that induces faulting of the seabed, leads to a large-scale displacement of water. Although most tsunamis are phenomena associated with the open ocean, some tsunamis can be generated within lakes and/or fjords due to rockslide failures. An attempt is made here to explain the processes of tsunami generation and propagation as well as what happens when tsunamis strike coastlines. A description is also given of how societies have responded to the perception of tsunami risk.

Tsunami Mechanics

When a tsunami is generated, the initial water movement is generally characterized by a rapid drawdown and a lowering of the sea surface at the coast as the water moves into the area of seabed displacement. Thereafter, due to the build up of momentum, large kinematic waves are propagated outward from the zone of seabed disturbance. The waves travel across the ocean at very high velocities, often in excess of 280 mph (miles per hour), and possess very long wavelengths and periods. Tsunami velocity is mostly a function of water depth. Thus, as the waves approach shallow water, the wave velocity decreases, and the wave starts to break. At the coast, the tsunami flood level (run-up) is partly a function of the dimensions of the propagated waves but is also greatly influenced by the topography and bathymetry of the coastal zone, and as such, the waves can reach considerable elevations, causing widespread destruction and loss of life.

It is a mistake to think of a tsunami as a single wave. All tsunamis consist of a train of waves that can strike a coastline over time periods ranging from a few minutes to several hours. Often, a large incoming wave can be followed by a much smaller one. However, the backwash from the first wave can interfere with the wave motion of the second incoming wave. In many cases, this interference can act to amplify the dimensions of the second wave, causing it to increase in size beyond the first. From this description, it can be easily appreciated that the dimensions of individual tsunami waves striking a coastline are greatly influenced by wave resonance, refraction and diffraction effects, and local near-shore bathymetry.

Geography of Tsunamis and Warning Systems

The majority of tsunamis occur around the Pacific Ocean, but many are also known from other areas. The frequency of Pacific tsunamis is due to the high occurrence of severe earthquakes under or close to the seabed as a result of the subduction of oceanic crust adjacent to continental margins. Such geological processes are a characteristic feature of Japan, where there is a long history of devastating earthquakes and tsunamis. Between 1596 and 1938, the Japanese islands were struck by 15 major tsunamis. One of the worst of these took place on June 15, 1896, as a result of a large submarine earthquake centered under the ocean floor 93 mi. (miles) offshore. Since the epicenter of the earthquake was located beneath the ocean floor, the inhabitants on nearby coasts, although they knew that an earthquake had taken place, were unaware that a dangerous tsunami had been generated.

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