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The Fair Labor Association (FLA) is a nonprofit organization that represents the combined efforts of the apparel industry, various nongovernmental organizations (NGOs), and colleges and universities to improve the conditions of workers around the world. In 1996, at the initiation of the U.S. Department of Labor, 300 apparel company representatives participated in the Fashion Industry Forum. This workshop was intended to raise awareness of labor and human rights abuses against persons employed in manufacturing clothing. As a result of the success of that forum, under the auspices of the White House, the Apparel Industry Partnership (AIP) was formed. The partnership consisted of representatives of labor unions and consumer advocacy, human rights, and religious groups. The purpose of the AIP was to improve conditions and eliminate abuse of adults and children in the garment industry, regardless of location. Participation by companies is voluntary.

Formation of the FLA

The principal mechanism to achieve an improvement in the working conditions is a code of conduct supported by independent monitoring. The code applies to both company-owned operations and, importantly, contractors who manufacture garments for the companies. Key elements of the code cover working conditions, minimum wages, limits on forced overtime, and banning child labor. Principles for monitoring compliance with the code of conduct were also developed. To recruit additional companies for membership, monitor compliance, and publicize the compliance with the code of conduct, the FLA was formed by the AIP. Publicizing compliance by member companies includes labels on clothing and statements or logos in advertising and in stores that advise consumers that the factories where the garments were produced met the FLA standards. Another branch of effort by the FLA is to monitor the activities of licensees for collegebranded merchandise. Based in Washington, D.C., FLA has a board of directors that includes six company representatives, six representatives from NGOs, three university representatives, and its chairperson.

FLA Membership

Apparel manufacturers belong to FLA to seek accreditation of their compliance programs. FLA does not certify companies but the compliance programs themselves. Companies seeking accreditation must commit to conduct internal audits of their factories, permit the FLA to review internal audit records, communicate the workplace standards to its management, submit their suppliers' factories list to the FLA, and allow the audit results to be publicized by the FLA. Unannounced audits are part of the compliance procedure, and FLA represents that approximately 5% of covered factories are audited each year.

College licensees join by applying in one of four categories, A through D, generally based on the size of the company and location. The compliance standards are similar to the apparel manufacturer requirements above.

NGOs and trade unions also belong to FLA and participate through the FLA's NGO Network. These groups are encouraged to participate in the standardssetting process and to assist in the monitoring efforts of FLA factories.

Numerous brand-name companies belong to the FLA, including Adidas-Salomon, Eddie Bauer, Liz Claiborne, Nordstrom, and Nike. These companies have committed to compliance with the FLA Code of Conduct and the related monitoring efforts. Colleges and universities join the FLA to insure that goods bearing their logos are produced under humane conditions. More than 180 schools require their licensees to participate in the FLA college licensee program.

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