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The theory of civilizing processes was developed by Norbert Elias in the 1930s to describe and explain the generation of higher standards of various forms of conduct in the context of unplanned but structured changes in state formation and lengthening chains of social interdependencies. The idea of civilized conduct may seem a strange companion to popular understandings of consumer culture, when the latter phrase is often associated with hedonism, individualism, and excess. But consumer cultures do refer to the meanings, values, emotions, and practices surrounding the use of goods and services, including how people use their bodies through acts of consumption. Elias's book The Civilizing Process, originally published in 1939, examines changing expectations regarding eating, especially, but also other bodily practices, such as deportment and dressing. Through broader social processes, such as urbanization, industrialization, and commercialization, within the context of the state increasingly pacifying people within the territory (i.e., state agencies such as the police force become solely responsible for keeping the peace), each person comes to depend on more and more interlinked people for the fulfillment of needs and wants on a more consistent basis. For example, in very agrarian societies, people tend to rely on themselves or small local groups for the provision of food, but within industrial societies, the various processes involved in the production, distribution, and consumption of food can involve many individuals connected through specializing in the various parts of these processes (the division of labor). This is an example of lengthening chains of social interdependencies, and as this occurs, cultures of consumption also change.

Through these changing norms and ideals of social conduct, including consumption practices, within broader and tighter networks of people (figurations), each person increasingly feels the need to exert greater self-control over behavior and emotions. Thus, civilizing processes also refer to the changing balance of restraints exercised on and through the individual, from social constraints toward more self-restraint and self-steered conduct. Part of this process involves the elevation of ideals of individualism and, as a variant of this, the notion that “the customer is king.” In other words, in principle, the consumer has come to be imagined as a sovereign, self-contained individual who knows his or her desires and is capable of fulfilling them in the market.

Consumption Skills and Displays

While Elias was not primarily concerned with consumer culture per se, he saw civilizing processes partly through developing norms, ideals, and practices pertaining to table manners and clothing styles. He noted how successive editions of leading etiquette texts over several centuries demonstrated higher and more precise standards for consuming food. Also, some rules or advice disappeared from later texts. For Elias, this meant they no longer needed to be explicitly stated to adults, as it was taken for granted that people do not breach such standards. Early etiquette manuals of the Middle Ages (written for the courtly circles of feudal lords) directed readers against sharing eating utensils with others, returning partly eaten food back to the common dish, or spitting at the dinner table. These are precepts that today we take for granted; as adults, there is no need for them to be written in manuals (though parents still have to tell young children not to engage in such behavior at the table). Some behavior at the table, and other forms and styles of consumption, became so shameful that they could hardly be alluded to in writing for an adult audience. Most adults had internalized these standards so that following them did not feel like compliance but rather fulfilling one's tastes and desires.

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