Oumfò

An oumfò (sometimes spelled houmfort) is the place where Vodu rituals usually take place in Haiti. It is regarded as a Vodu Temple or a spiritual center.

An oumfò is made up of several parts. The first one, the peristyle, is located at the entrance of the oumfò. Its size may vary from oumfò to oumfò, but it is usually a rather large and semi-open space where Vodu ceremonies take place. The peristyle is typically decorated with mystic paintings on the walls and colorful banners hanging from the ceiling. The ceiling of the peristyle usually rests on four pillars, which represent the four cardinal points. The most important part of the peristyle, however, is the potomitan (which literally means “pillar in the middle”), a pillar located in the center, usually decorated with a spiraling snake, and connecting the ground to the ceiling. The Lwa (spirits) are believed to ascend or descend through the [Page 510]potomitan, which is therefore seen as a magical axis. Given this, the potomitan plays a critical role during Vodu ceremonies.

In addition to the peristyle, the oumfò also includes a number of small rooms that are sanctuaries dedicated to the Lwa honored in the oumfò in question. One of them, the djèvo, is the most sacred and secret of those sanctuaries: It is indeed where the pé, a stonework altar, the Vodu shrine, is located. Important items of the Vodu cult are placed on the pé, such as the colliers (sacred necklaces), flags, govi (jars that contain spiritual elements of the initiates), and books. Furthermore, the djèvo is also the room where initiates are secluded for several days, thus undergoing symbolic death there. It may also be the place where a large enough basin filled with water is kept for aquatic Lwa such as Danbal-Wedo and Ayida-Wedo. Other chambers are dedicated to the Lwa served in a particular oumfò, containing all the symbols associated with the Lwa. Thus, there might be a room for Papa Ogu, with his cutlass, hat, and bottle of rum; or there may be one for Ezili Freda, with her expensive perfumes, delicate attires, and so on. Sometimes, due to space constraints, several Lwa may have to share a room.

Outside of the peristyle and spiritual chambers that make up the oumfò, one may observe additional items devoted to the Lwa, such as a big black cross for Baron-Smaedi or sacred trees usually decorated with Vodu spiritual items. Also noticeable is a profusion of white doves, pigeons, and chickens. These may be animals that will be sacrificed at a later date or were previously called on for rituals and then set free.

In addition to being places where spiritual ceremonies are held, oumfòs also function as communes. Indeed, attached to the Mambo or Houngan, who presides over the oumfò, are a number of persons who were initiated by her or him or who have come to gravitate toward them, that is, Hounsis. The latter owe total respect and complete devotion to their Papa or Manman. In fact, they form a society, with clear rules, centered on the Houngan or the Mambo. They usually spend a significant amount of time at the oumfò, may even sleep there at times, and certainly must come when called for help, especially during ceremonies, when dancers and singers are needed. They may also be called on to cook for the Lwa or the Houngan/Mambo to clean the peristyle and, generally speaking, get things ready for ceremonies. In return for their loyalty, the Mambo or Houngan must act as their counselor and protector and is ultimately responsible for their needs. If necessary, she or he must feed them and help pay for their hospital bill or their children's school tuition. In other words, the oumfò is an important place of comfort and support for all attached to it. Outside of Vodu ceremonies, the peristyle is used as a living space, where hounsis socialize and may perform their various duties. It is where visitors wait or even sleep. Oumfòs vary in size: Some may be big and others small depending on the Houngan/Mambo's resources and success. In any case and regardless of its size, an oumfò is always kept clean because it is a most sacred place.

...